Fashion English. Lesson 4. Part 1
С сентября 2018 года в National Museums Liverpool прошла выставка, посвященная повседневной одежде XVIII века, - "Dressed to impress" ("Надеть, чтобы произвести впечатление"). В уроке использованы материалы, представленные музеем в рамках организации и проведения выставки.
Introduction
The clothes in the display of the exhibition are typical of the fashionable styles worn by ‘the middling sort’. Neither rich or poor, these people often wanted to improve and display their social standing through their clothing.
"the middling sort" - люди среднего уровня достатка
Reading and Listening
Text. 'Getting Dressed in the XVIII Century"
(National Museums Liverpool, YouTube)
The shift was the undergarment worn next to the skin, made from linen.
It was washable and protected the clothes from bodily moisture and the body from possibly harsh textiles being worn. It was not meant to be seen.
No knickers were worn. Over-the-knee stockings made from wool, cotton, silk or a mixture of these yarns were machine or hand knitted. They were often decorated at the ankle with a woven design known as clocks.
Ribbon garters were tied just above the knee. However for walking or dancing the garters were often tied below the knee and the stocking rolled down over them to secure everything in place.
The Dickey petticoat is a knee-length white linen petticoat worn for warmth and modesty. Stays were made from layers of linen and boned with strips of baleen. Some were left plain and others faced with decorative silk fabric.
They altered the body to the characteristic 18th century shape of upright flat back, narrow conical waist and raised bosom.
Pocket bags were worn at the hip and carried around the waist on the linen cord. Side openings and the skirts allowed access to them. They were made from plain or decorated fabric embroidered or as in this example made from a patchwork of pieced fabrics. It was possible to lose your pockets however if the ties came undone. "Lucy locket lost her pocket, Kitty Fischer found it, not a penny was there in it, only a ribbon round it."
Pannier or a hip pad were worn to lift and display the skirts and to emphasize the small waist. The hip pad was a large roll tapering at the ends and tied around the waist. It may have been padded with anything from wool to cork. At least one full-length linen petticoat was also worn. In the winter and under-petticoat wadded with wool and quilted for warmth may have been worn. During the day a linen or silk kerchief or fisher was worn over the bosom for warmth, modesty and protect from the sun. It could be worn tucked into the gown or worn over the shoulders and sometimes it was crossed over the chest and tied at the back.
The stomacher was a decorative panel of fabric that filled the center front bodice of a gown. It could have been stiffened or just lined and had three pairs of linen tabs at the side, to help pin it to the stage beneath. Stomachers could be highly decorated and worn with many different gowns or made of matching fabric. The gown petticoat could be made of pairs of contrasting fabric or to match the gown. It was lined with silk or linen and had side openings for pocket access.
Elaborately quilted silk petticoat were often worn in colder weather.
The gown is pinned into place down the side front of the stomacher with straight pins.
The maid's linen apron has a bib pinned into position/ That is the origin of the term 'pinafore'. She has placed the straight pins in the bib ready for fastening her mistress's gown. Ribbons beneath the gowns skirts are tied together to raise the skirts into a polonaise puff.
Day caps were worn by all classes and varied from practical to decorative.
Finally a delicate silk or embroidered muslin apron is added, which serves no purpose but to indicate the fine status of the individual wearing it: "conspicuous consumption".
Words and Phrases
shift - женская сорочка
undergarment - нижнее нательное белье
linen - льняная ткань, бельевая полотняная ткань; полотняный, льняной, белошвейный, нательный
knickers - тонкие панталоны
stockings - чулки
yarns - нить, пряжа
hand knitted - ручная вязка, ручная работа
machine knitted - машинная вязка, машинная работа
decorated at ... with ... - декорированный на … (чем-либо)
woven design - тканный декор
clocks - тканный узор, тканное шитье
Dickey petticoat - комбинация
stays - корсет
strips of baleen - (пластины) китового уса
plain - без декора, без рисунка
faced with - с отделкой, отделанное (декором)
decorative silk fabric - декоративная шелковая ткань
altered the body to… - видоизменивший форму тела (как, с каким эффектом)
upright flat back - прямая спина
narrow conical waist - узкая конусообразная талия
raised bosom - поднятая грудь
pocket bags - подвесные карманы
at the hip - на бедрах
linen cord - бельевой шнурок, полотняный шнурок
side openings - отверстия по бокам, в швах
skirt - юбка
embroidered - украшенный вышивкой
made from a patchwork of pieced fabrics - выполненный в технике пэчворк из отрезков ткани
come undone - развязываться : f.e., The ties came undone.
…Lucy locket lost her pocket,
Kitty Fischer found it,
not a penny was there in it,
only a ribbon round it.
pannier - панье
hip pad - турнюр (принадлежность женского туалета, имеющая вид подушечки, которая подкладывалась под платье ниже талии для придания фигуре пышности)
roll tapering at the ends - валик, суживающийся к концам
tied around the waist - повязанный вокруг талии
padded with - набитый чем-либо
cork - пробка
full-length - полноразмерный, во весь рост
petticoat - нижняя юбка
wadded with wool - подбитый шерстью
quilted for warmth - простеганный для утепления
kerchief - косынка
fisher (tweed scarf) - грубошерстный шейный платок, твидовый палантин
over the bosom - поверх груди
modesty - скромность, благопристойность
tucked into the gown - заправленный под платье
worn over the shoulders - накинутый поверх плечей
crossed over the chest - перекрещенный на груди
tied at the back - завязаный на спине
stomacher - корсаж
decorative panel of fabric - декоративная плотная тканевая вставка
center front bodice of a gown - центральная передняя полочка лифа платья
stiffened - жесткий
linen tabs - тканевые уплотнители
lined - обшитый, с подкладкой
three pairs of linen tabs at the side - три пары тканевых уплотнителей с изнаночной стороны
matching fabric - ткань согласующегося или того же цвета
elaborately - искусно, продуманно
quilted - простеганый
linen apron - тканевый, полотняный передник
maid - служанка
mistress - госпожа
bib - нагрудный мешочек
pinafore - платье-сарафан
ribbons - лента, тесьма
ribbons beneath the goan skirts - ленты по подолу юбок платья
polonaise puff - пуфы юбок платья в стиле «полонез»
day caps - дневные головные уборы, шляпка для выходов в дневное время
embroidered - вышитый
delicate - тонкий, легкий
"conspicuous consumption" - "положение обязывает" (потребление предметов тщеславия, избыточное потребление, потребление для демонстрации собственного статуса)

(to be continued)